Aquarium Setup and Maintenance

Marine aquariums can be a fascinating and rewarding pastime. If You’re interested in pursuing this hobby, our guide to setting up a marine aquarium Will help familiarize you with a number of the equipment and procedures that are involved in choosing and setting up your first aquarium. This page covers some of the accessories and tools that can help to make the hobby more pleasurable and a little easier. The information below will help you begin. Please make certain to see with the local aquarium store Should you want more information. They’ll be delighted to talk about their expertise.

Selecting a Location

When you need to find Vent. It’s ideal to locate a location with a temperature that is steady. Because this may lead to algae growth in the tank, you want to prevent direct sunlight. You will want to discover a place that will make it effortless while allowing it to be seen to keep the aquarium. Your aquarium will be an centerpiece in your dwelling. Be certain you put it where your guests and you will appreciate it. Bear in mind, as soon as you get it going and set it up, you should avoid moving it. Moving the tank will require draining the water and disturbing the animals besides being a real inconvenience. This should be avoided as far as possible.

Choosing an Aquarium

There are a couple of factors to take into account when selecting an aquarium. You want to pick the material. There are two options here: acrylic and glass. They both have disadvantages and advantages. A glass aquarium will be recommended by most experts. An aquarium’s size is significant. Bigger is better In regards to aquariums.

Glass Aquariums

Glass aquariums are a better choice for novices Since they tend to be costly. They are resistant to scratching. Glass aquariums will keep their clarity. Glass is stable and won’t change with age in clarity or color. On the other hand, glass aquariums are more heavy than acrylic. Class is brittle and can break under the perfect conditions. That is no problem if you select brand. As they are constructed, glass aquariums are prone to leakage. There is A silicon sealant used to produce the corners waterproof. This seal can fail resulting in leakage, if you choose a brand, but this is uncommon and again.

Acrylic Aquariums

Acrylic aquariums have some advantages over glass. They can Be molded leaving. They are much lighter than glass aquariums. Because it’s more pliable, acrylic can be molded into various shapes, providing a lot more options for somebody who may be searching for something a little less traditional. On the down side aquariums do scratch. Care must be taken when cleaning and putting decorations within the aquarium such as coral and stones. The oil can be caused by even scratches over time from a cleaning cloth. Additionally, color over time can change, occasionally turning yellow. Acrylic aquariums often cost more than glass.

Aquarium Size

Size does matter In regards to aquariums. You should Pick the biggest tank you can afford and that you have room for. Your fish will increase over time and the coral will grow, should you decide to add coral into your tank. Corals can double in size. It’s also better for the fish to give them lots of space. Tangs, by way of instance, need room. Some species will require a tank for a minimum. Also, larger tanks offer a much more secure environment and are therefore easier to treat and preserve.

Stands & Canopies

You need to decide what, once you have chosen an aquarium You will put on it. It’s recommended to stand rather than an open framework stand. Solid stands provide far better support and also have the benefit of letting you store equipment and supplies out of sight. This is particularly important if you’ll use an external filtration system which will have to be located underneath the stand. Lots of folks prefer to decide on a stand that matches the look and style of the aquarium. Many aquarium retailers will sell places that have a fitting aquarium, stand, and canopy. There is A canopy a lid that goes on top of the aquarium. Canopies normally have a lid that opens on a hinge or a set of doors on the front that open to allow access for feeding and cleaning. The aquarium lights can be mounted within the canopy to provide a clean, finished look for the machine. A new trend in the aquarium hobby is to go “topless”. The lights can be hung from the ceiling to create an interesting effect and permit complete access to the tank for maintenance and cleaning. Keeping the lights on the outside of the aquarium may also help keep the water cooler. It all comes down to personal taste. With a canopy will conceal the warmth of the lights from perspective and generally provides a more pleasing and completed look for the machine. However, based on the kind of lights you’re using, keeping them within a canopy can raise the temperature of the water, necessitating the use of a frightening unit sometimes.

Aquarium Lighting

Providing the right kind of lighting Important for many reasons. First, saltwater fish can be quite colorful and expensive and you’ll want to be certain to showcase your investment. Also, offering a normal cycle of light every day is very important to the wellbeing of the animals in your tank. Lights should be installed with timers to present a consistent cycle of night and day. Experts recommend 8 to 10 hours of light daily. Keeping a cycle will help to decrease. Light will be more significant, if you’re planning to keep coral on your aquarium. Corals use light to make food if not provided with good lighting and species will have light requirements and will die. There are lots of options for light your aquarium available.

Fluorescent Lights

Lights provide one of the easiest ways to light an aquarium. They are inexpensive and are offered in a number of colours and sizes. They are the energy efficient. If you opt to go topless fixtures for lighting care available which can be mounted to the tank. Fixtures are available which can be mounted within a canopy. Lighting is very good for tanks. They may also be used with a few soft corals provided that intensity and the color is supplied. Since they age, the wavelength and intensity of the light decreases bulbs have to be replaced. Experts recommend replacing lighting every 12 to 18 months.

Metal Halide Lights

Metal halide lights are high intensity lighting systems which Are popular with aquarium hobbyists that are sophisticated. An intense light that means of daylight is provided by the. This is important if you intend to keep a good deal of coral with the corals, especially on your tank. These corals have a symbiotic algae known as zooxanthellae. This algae uses sunlight to generate food. The coral will die Whether this algae dies. The light from metal halide bulbs can penetrate deeper which makes them a much better choice for aquariums. Metal halide lights’ drawback is they use a good deal of electricity and they are costly to set up. If kept within a canopy they burn hot and can increase the temperature of the water. Some people today use a combination of fluorescent and metal halide to give the combination of colour and intensity.

LED Lights

Light Emitting Diodes (LED) lights are the new kid on the block. They have become a viable alternative to fluorescent and metal halide and have been introduced during the past few years. They could wind up saving you money over time, although they are the choice to install. They are very efficient and they burn cooler that other kinds of lights. They are quite compact and can be mounted in a canopy or over a tank. They are bright enough to be used with all types of corals. LED lights come in various colors, and several of the units are programmable. This means that you can place colours to change and give an assortment of effects. Most can be set up to go on and off without needing an external timer at certain time. Some may be programmed to turn on and off to sunrise and sunset. This can help reduce the strain of light and provides a more natural environment for the animals. LED lighting has the potential to replace halide, as costs come down over the next few decades.

Filtration Methods

Now that you have chosen stand a tank, and light system, You want to consider filtration. There are lots of procedures for filtering water. The methods that are best use what’s called biological filtration, where toxins are removed by bacteria . Fish give off a toxin. The bacteria in the filter convert the ammonia into nitrite, which is toxic. Another sort of bacteria converts the nitrite into nitrate, which is less toxic. As nitrate builds up, water changes can remove it. This is what’s known in the hobby as the nitrogen cycle.

Is whether or not You’re going to use a sump. A sump is a container or tank that sits within the aquarium stand, usually beneath the aquarium. Sumps can be found with and without. With a sump with live rock and sand is your preferred method for aquarium hobbyists, and it’ll provide success in the long term to you. Sumps offer a place also to add filtration like a protein skimmer or nitrate reactor and to do maintenance. Additionally, it adds the system which may help make it secure and water. Water flowing back up and down to the sump into the aquarium help to keep the water oxygenated. The down side to a sump is that it needs to be plumbed. But PVC piping is easy to work with and anybody ought to be able to do it. You will find additional filtration methods if you decide not to use a sump.

Undergravel Filters

Undergravel filters’ Prevalence has been decreasing over The years as approaches have become available. Filters include the recirculates it back in the tank, and a plate which pulls down water through a substrate gravel. The gravel provides a medium for the bacteria to grow. They are powered by an air conditioner or air stone. Filters are utilized in tanks under 55 gallons. They could work for tanks but need maintenance to keep the gravel clean. Because their filtration capability is limited, they aren’t acceptable for tanks with a great deal of fish. The use of these filters does need a period known before fish can be added to the aquarium as biking.

Wet/Dry Trickle Filters

Trickle filters are a step up from the undergravel filters. The hook to the back of operate and the aquarium by pumping water and into a container with some kind of filter media. Many use a wheel which rotates when it is passed over by the water. The wheel provides a location for the bacteria to grow. These filters are acceptable for small aquariums. They do need a whole lot of maintenance to make sure that the filters are kept clean although they could work for systems. The systems with the wheels are famous for getting clogged. If the wheel stops turning, it may dry an you can lose the majority of your beneficial bacteria which can reduce the system’s capacity out. The use of these filters does need a period known before fish can be added to the aquarium as biking.

Canister Filters

Canister filters consist aquarium. They then pumps it back up, and have a pump that pulls water down from the tank, through the filter. They use a combination of biological and mechanical filtration. A collection of filter pads provides the filtration. A medium comprising pellets or plastic that provide a medium for the bacteria to grow usually provides filtration. Canister filters are a much better option than trickle or undergravel filters. They can be used with aquariums. But they can be difficult to clean and clean and do require routine maintenance. Failing to wash the filter pads can make the water quality worse as other gunk and detritus can begin to introduce toxins. The use of these filters does need a period known before fish can be added to the aquarium as biking.

Live Rock/Live Sand

Definitely the most preferred method of filtration for marine Aquariums is through the use of sand or live stone. Sand contains sand that’s been cultured in the sea and contains. Live rock includes rock that’s been cultured in the sea and contains the bacteria that are filtering. When using rock is called the Berlin method using sand is called the Jaubert method. From the Jaubert method, a bed of sand is utilized to provide filtration. From the Berlin method stone acts to offer filtration. Additionally, it has the extra benefit of providing a realistic and natural setting for coral and fish. To get a Berlin system the general guideline is to add 1.5 lbs of live rock for each gallon of water from the aquarium. Many aquarium hobbyists prefer to use both rock and live sand. Both may be obtained from the community aquarium retailer. One benefit to these two systems is they typically do not need a cycle time, because the bacteria is within the system. Together with filtration methods, a cycling period of up to a month must permit time for the bacteria to grow. Both these systems are utilized with a sump. A pump drops down to the sump through a hole in the aquarium and pumps back into the tank water. By removing waste using a protein skimmer offers filtration. Protein skimmers are put in the sump.

Aquarium Water

Tap water isn’t recommended. Most city Water supplies have numerous compounds that are toxic to invertebrates and fish. Chlorine are found in tap water and are poisonous to creatures. The toxins will stay in the water and will develop in your aquarium with time, although the chlorine and chloramine may be removed using chemicals. Undoubtedly the best kind of water is Reverse Osmosis water, frequently referred to as RO water. You can find RO water in the grocery store and in the local aquarium store. Distilled water will suffice if you can not get RO water. You might want to consider investing in an RO/DI filter unit if you’re planning to be serious about the hobby. This is made up of variety of a reverse osmosis filter membrane and numerous filter canisters including a deionization (DI) filter. RO/DI units can be bought for as little as $150.00 and will be more convenient that lugging home buckets or bottles of water out of the shop. You will want to obtain a TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) meter to check your water quality so you’ll have to know when to change the filters. Some RO/DI units are available with TDS meters construct in. Consider buying a plastic garbage can to maintain your water For those who have a huge aquarium. It is possible to combine the salt and wheel it up to do the water change. Rubbermaid makes a can that is hardy called. They also sell heavy duty wheels that snap on to the can’s base.

Substrate

Substrate is aquarium. It is coral or sand Unless you’re currently using an undergravel filter. The type of substrate For a marine aquarium is. Crushed coral and Fine sand are both great choices. Crushed coral is More will provide a look to the system and coarse. It really Comes down to personal taste. We have and have been using sand Had nothing but great luck. Sand is cultured in the sea And contains other creatures that help and bacteria to filter the water and keep it clean. You will need to decide how deep You would like the layer. Between two and is recommended by most experts 4 inches. If you are currently using live sand more is 4 inches and better Is advised. There’s a new tendency in the hobby to go”bottomless”. Many people fear that the substrate can become fouled over the time and Can harm the tank. The prefer to use no substrate. There appears to be no evidence that this makes any difference. So It comes down to personal taste. We’ve been using 4 inches Of sand that is live an our tank is over ten years old with coral and fish. As long as you use RO/DI water, monitor your water quality, install a Protein skimmer, and do you water changes, you Shouldn’t have any issues with sand or crushed coral.

Putting It All Together

Now that you have the aquarium, Stand, filter, and lights, set up everything as directed. You can add it to the tank from the bag, if you’re using sand. Otherwise, before adding to the tank, sand and crushed coral will need to be cleaned. Wash it in a bucket with water until the water runs clean. Mix your saltwater working with plastic garbage or a bucket can. Check the specific gravity with an hydrometer that is proper from you aquarium shop or pet. You may want it to read 1.026 with the water temperature around 78 degrees F (26 degrees C). Insert the substrate and begin to add your water. Stop to check for leaks. There’s nothing worse than locating a leak and filling a aquarium filled with RO/DI water and needing to drain it. Fill the tank about 3/4 of the way to permit room.

If you are currently using stone you can Go on and add it. Stack it and arrange it to suit your own taste. Many amateurs prefer to create formations that are tall rather than piling it up. This also helps to provide better water flow and can prevent the buildup of detritus in what are called”dead zones”. You will get an assortment of decorating ideas if you’re not using live rock. Coral that was dried and stone may be used. Coral, some of that appears as good as the real thing is also sold by Many companies. Be sure whatever you put in the aquarium is clean and is approved for use in a saltwater aquarium. Top off the water As soon as you’re finished decorating and turn on the pump. Allow the system run for two or a day to clean the water. If you’re using live sand or live stone, you could have the ability to add fish after just a few days. Check with the shop where you purchased your rock and be sure that it has been cured. Test the water and be sure that the amounts of ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite are currently remaining at zero. It’s always best to add two creatures or one to start and monitor the water quality. Give before adding more, the system time to correct. Monitor you water quality to prevent any issues. Aquarium retailers will offer to check your water.

If You’re Not currently using live sand/love Before you can add any animals, the you’ll need to cycle the tank. One way would be to buy two shrimp or one and throw them. The bacteria will start to grow, as they rot. Some aquarium retailers promote bacteria additives which may be added to accelerate the cycling procedure. Test your water. You will notice ammonia levels rise over 7 to 10 days. The ammonia will fall and nitrites will start to rise. The nitrites will fall and nitrates will begin to rise. It’s safe to add fish, After nitrite and ammonia read zero on your water test. Make sure to go slow and include two or one . Watch your water quality and give the system time to adjust after every addition. Patience is essential. You might find if you include too many animals too quickly.

Stocking the Aquarium

Once your aquarium system has cycled As well as the water tests OK, it’s time. You can buy your animals or buy them online. Online retailers offer fast delivery and prices. The issue is that you can not see exactly what you’re currently getting. You might want to get them if you picky about the coloration and size of the fish you want in your tank. You can invertebrates such as crabs and snails online if you can find much better prices.

When selecting animals for purchase, Examine them closely to be sure they seem healthy. Make sure they don’t have spots or any marks . Make sure their eyes are not white and clean. Ask someone at the shop to provide them some food so that you can make sure they’re eating. Do not buy a creature that refuses food. Pick a specimen when purchasing coral. Do not buy any coral. Aquarium retailers provide a guarantee of one or more times in the event when you get it 21, the animal dies.

When You get the animals they Before they are introduced to the tank must be acclimated. The best way to animals is to put them in a bucket . Add water from the aquarium to the bucket or by using a plastic tubing. Begin a siphon in the tube so that it drips into the bucket, and tie a knot. You need to add around three times the quantity of water which was in the bucket over a span of 15 to 30 minutes. You can put the animals in the tank When the acclimation process is complete. Take care not to get gills and fish fins . DO NOT place any of the water which came in your tank with the animals In case you have invertebrates on your aquarium. Aquarium shops put copper in their water to help prevent diseases. Copper will kill coral, crabs, and shrimps and is toxic to invertebrates.

It may take a few days for the new Animals to adapt to their new environment. Before adding new ones, feeding the fish can help prevent behaviour. Turning the lights off might help Should you notice some animals being competitive to the new ones. Monitor your animals closely if you find any problems, and seek support.

Maintaining the Aquarium

Now that you have up the aquarium And running it’s time. The three most important sections of upkeep are water testing, water fluctuations, and water replacement.

Water Replacement

As water evaporates from the machine, You’ll have to add distilled water or new RO/DI to replace it. The salt remains behind After the water evaporates. You will add water to replace the water. For those who have a sump strive to maintain the water level and you might choose to indicate a line. It’s wise to add water every day as opposed to every couple of days. This avoids fluctuations that could stress the animals and keeps the gravity of the water consistent.

Water Changes

Nitrate is the consequence of this nitrogen cycle. By changing the water, it must be taken out. For a tank, it’s advised that about 10% change out of the water. They can take a 20% water change, since tanks are secure. Switch the pump off and drain the water. Buy a salt mix from pet shop or your aquarium retailer. Mix saltwater to pH and the specific gravity as the water from the tank. Make sure that the temperature of the water that is new is as close as possible to the temperature in the tank. Pour or pump to the tank and then turn the pump back on. Once a month doing this serves two functions. If retains it and the levels down replenishes elements in the water.

Water Testing

It’s important to test your Aquarium water on a regular basis. Over time, the system should be secure. However issues can pop up. Animals that are dead in addition to buildup of detritus and waste can lead to ammonia spikes that are issues for the livestock on your tank. A build-up of phosphate and nitrate can cause algae growth. Some of the algae can be tricky to control once established. It’s imperative to keep track of alkalinity and calcium levels In case you have corals on your aquarium. A drop in fluctuation or calcium in alkalinity can kill invertebrates such as coral, crabs, and shrimp. You’ll have to check ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH each week For those who have a aquarium. In case you have coral you will have to examine alkalinity and calcium. You also need to check levels to keep algae in check. Most aquarium retailers will offer to check for you in your water. You still need to keep test kits. This will let you take action when the aquarium shop is closed, if a problem occurs.

Water Temperature

The optimal temperature for a marine Aquarium is approximately 78 degrees F (26 degrees C). Anything over 82 is definitely hot, and anything under 76 is cold. It’s an excellent idea. Many versions are available that attach to the tank’s side. They’ve a sensor probe that’s placed to monitor the temperature. A number of them have. During winter months you might have to use a heater to keep the water. The heaters are fully submersible. Once properly adjusted, they’ll keep the water at a temperature that is constant. Heaters com in various sizes. Be certain that you get. It won’t keep a constant temperature if the heater is too small. It is far better to have one. Throughout the summer, if you discover the water temperature continuously rising over 80 degrees F (27 degrees C), then you might want to think about buying a chiller. There is A chiller a refrigeration unit that’s hooked up to the aquarium. They are up in-line with the water flow. They can be programmed to keep the temperature. you can leave both components hooked up all 22, some chillers have a place.

Daily Maintenance

Every day you should check the water Level and add warm water or new RO/DI to replace water that is evaporated. Check the temperature and be sure it’s steady. Add chiller or a heater during periods of heat or extreme cold. Check any filters to determine if they have to be cleaned. Check it For those who have a protein skimmer if it’s full, and empty the cup. Check fish there are not any signs of disease or stress. Feed the animals and remove any uneaten food as required.

Weekly Maintenance

After you need to check that the water quality. For fish-only systems, assess ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and pH. If you’ve invertebrates or coral in the tank you’ll also have to examine alkalinity and calcium levels. Scrape on any algae from acrylic or the glass using a cleaning pad qualified for use you’ve got. Be careful as they scratch. Also, check for clogs in filters if necessary, and clean them.

Biweekly Maintenance

water change. Remove of the water and replace it as the water from the tank with saltwater using pH and the specific gravity. As you siphon the water for elimination you may gently vacuum the substrate. If you’ve got it clean any filtration media. Clean the aquarium glass and also clean any salt buildup, calcium deposits, etc. to keep the aquarium looking fine. Check connections and the lights to make sure everything is clean and replace lighting.

Yearly Maintenance

If You’re currently using bulbs Every 12 to 18 months, You’ll have to replace them. As their, these lights age Wavelength and intensity will change. This may cause algae to grow in the A number of your corals and aquarium may endure. Additionally, It is a good idea Any give them a good cleaning and powerheads in the tank. Scrub away algae with a soft brush. If they’re coated with algae or calcium deposits, you Can soak them in vinegar to soften up it. It is a good idea a year give it a thorough cleaning and pump.